Matcha has become a global phenomenon, permeating menus from Starbucks lattes in the UK to Krispy Kreme doughnuts in Singapore. This surge in popularity is fueled by social media influencers sharing enticing recipes and brewing techniques, with the hashtag "Matcha Tok" racking up millions of views. The trend coincides with Japan's resurgence in tourism, driving demand for Japanese products due to a weakened yen.
As cafes and consumers seek to indulge in matcha, reports indicate a rapid depletion of supplies. Lauren Purvis, a US tea importer, noted that quantities that used to last her clients a month are now exhausted within mere days. Some establishments are even ordering as much as a kilogram a day to satisfy eager customers.
However, this soaring demand is colliding with supply challenges. Record heatwaves in Japan have impacted crop yields in the Kyoto region, which is responsible for approximately 25% of Japan's matcha production. Additionally, the aging farmer population and a lack of interest from younger generations exacerbate the problem.
In response to the strong tourist influx in Uji, a city known for its matcha, shops have started enforcing purchase limits to manage dwindling stock. Atsuko Mori, director of Kyoto's Camellia Tea Ceremony, noted that the number of visitors has doubled, leading to restricted sales of matcha tins. Some retailers, like Chazen in Tokyo, are witnessing delays in orders and an increase in matcha prices by approximately 30% this year.
Despite the challenges, the rise in popularity has encouraged more individuals to explore Japanese tea culture. Matcha production has nearly tripled from 2010 to 2023, and green tea exports, including matcha, surged by 25% last year, bringing in about 36.4 billion yen (£180 million; $250 million).
Nevertheless, advocates are calling for a movement against hoarding and the misuse of high-quality matcha in cooking, promoting the use of lower-grade matcha instead. The Global Japanese Tea Association is keen to ensure that the tradition and integrity of matcha are preserved, suggesting that mindful consumption is vital moving forward.
Furthermore, impending tariffs imposed by the US on Japanese goods could further inflate matcha prices, raising concerns among distributors. Following a recent trade agreement, a 15% import tax will be enacted, positioning the specialty tea sector for potential turmoil.
While the current boom in demand might create revenue opportunities for coffee shops and retailers, some anticipate that the market could stabilize within the next few years as the novelty wears off. "Right now, demand is through the roof, but we foresee a gradual calm," said Masahiro Nagata, co-founder of the Matcha Tokyo café chain.
