France has started imposing fees on fast fashion items which could reach almost €20 per garment by 2030, as the government tries to curb sales of cheap clothing sold by e‑commerce sites.
The new levy, launched on Tuesday, follows a June law that curbs “ultra‑fast fashion” firms such as Shein, Temu and AliExpress. Critics say the policy was designed to limit the environmental and economic damage caused by cheap, high‑volume clothing.
China’s commerce ministry has described the law as discriminatory and a trade barrier that could violate World Trade Organization principles.
French Minister Mathieu Lefevre explained that “the harmful effects of ultra‑fast fashion” are well known. In July, his office clarified the levy would not affect retailers such as H&M or Zara, sparking accusations that the measure is meant to spare European companies.
Under the new system, sellers are evaluated on the volume of goods they place on the market and the relative cost of repairing garments. The per‑item fee will vary based on these criteria: for 2026, charges range from €0.50 for underwear to €9 for jeans and €12 for jackets. By 2030, the fee could rise to around €19.50 per item, capped at 50% of the product’s pre‑tax price.
Shein, established in China and headquartered in Singapore, was valued at $26.2 bn (£19.3 bn) after its Hong Kong stock‑market debut. The brand acknowledges environmental concerns but argues it does not manufacture the garments sold on its platform.
The measures come after French Parliament approved a ban on Shein’s website in July and following protests from consumers and industry groups who worry the levy will worsen living costs.
