In brief
As Goma faces violence from the M23 rebel group, neighboring Gisenyi in Rwanda thrives in peace, highlighting the stark realities of war and leisure in Lake Kivu.
On the shores of Lake Kivu, a stark contrast emerges. Just minutes apart yet worlds away, the cities of Goma in the Democratic Republic of Congo and Gisenyi in Rwanda reflect two vastly different realities. In Gisenyi, visitors enjoy serene sunsets, gliding on canoes, and indulging in local cuisine, while Goma suffers from the aftermath of a recent rebel takeover. This month, Gisenyi’s peaceful ambiance stands in stark juxtaposition to the ongoing violence in Goma caused by the M23 rebel group, which has reportedly resulted in nearly 3,000 deaths during its offensive in January, as reported by the United Nations. "We need to unwind, to have a change of scene," shared Exauce Shalako, a young man who crossed into Rwanda after losing a friend to the violence. While Gisenyi is adorned with vibrant decorations and the aroma of grilled chicken wafts through beachfront restaurants, Goma's soundscape is chilling, filled with the sounds of sirens and the stench of death. However, the painful truth is that Rwanda is being accused of meddling in the Congolese conflict, with claims from U.S. and U.N. experts that Rwandan troops are fighting alongside M23 rebels. Rwanda has denied these allegations, maintaining its stance on the border conflict. The juxtaposition of these two cities underscores the complexities of regional conflict and its deep human toll, marking a painful reminder of instability in close proximity to tranquility.




