Zeeshan Ali has been a prominent drag artist for over a decade, dazzling audiences across India with his performances, which are significantly defined by his stunning collection of roughly 45 wigs. "It's an altar of identity," Ali expresses, as he transforms into various exaggerated characters on stage. However, his journey into the world of wigs has not always been smooth. Initially, Ali found it challenging to access quality wigs in India, often resorting to creating his own using basic materials like fabric and wool.
Fortunately, the landscape of wig-wearing has changed drastically. Today, wigs have transcended their traditional association with drag and film artists, becoming fashionable accessories for both women and men. According to hair collector Kolachi Venkatesh from Avadi, Chennai, the nation leads globally in human hair export, providing 85% of the world's supply. Venkatesh, who has been in the hair collection business for 20 years, reflects on his family's legacy of hair picking, often salvaging hair discarded by households and salons.
Despite the importance of their work in fueling a billion-dollar wig industry, hair pickers earn modest wages, often struggling to meet basic needs. "It’s just thrown away but it's gold," Venkatesh laments, pointing out that their contribution is invaluable yet underappreciated. Most of the harvested hair is sent to China, which boasts a multi-billion dollar wig manufacturing industry. Industry experts like Benjamin Cherian from Plexconcil argue that India needs to catch up in terms of value addition and manufacturing practices. He emphasizes that government support is crucial to enhance the sector’s potential.
Additionally, innovative Indian companies like Diva Divine Hair are stepping in to bridge the gap between raw hair and high-quality wigs. Founded in 2009 by Nidhi Tiwari, the venture aims to provide excellent solutions to the rising concerns of hair loss among women, thanks to a significant shift in how wigs are perceived today. "Now, wigs and extensions can be discussed openly," Tiwari notes, heralding a new era of acceptance.
Wig technology has also advanced dramatically; lighter and more comfortable designs are now available, featuring enhancements like 3D printing and digital color-matching. The quality of hair sourced from temples, often referred to as Remy hair, further strengthens the market, leading to high-quality products valued for their durability and appearance.
With the demand for Indian human hair skyrocketing, the opportunity for local businesses to capture a greater share of the global market is enormous. As Zeeshan Ali calls for more diverse and affordable options in Indian wigs, the industry's future shines bright, embodying both creativity and economic promise.
