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Absent Spirits in Japan: A Lake's Melancholy Message

A centuries-old tradition in Japan ties a winter phenomenon to local spiritual beliefs, but recent fluctuations raise questions about nature's balance.

By Martin Fackler and Hisako UenoSource: nytimes.com1 min read
Absent Spirits in Japan: A Lake's Melancholy Message
Image via nytimes.com

In brief

The Miwatari, a significant seasonal ice formation on Lake Suwa, has disappeared in recent years, disrupting local customs and sparking concerns over environmental changes.

In the heart of Japan, the historic Lake Suwa has been a silent witness to a remarkable tradition for over six centuries. Residents have monitored an exceptional winter phenomenon known as the Miwatari—a jagged ridge of ice that appears mysteriously after prolonged freezing temperatures. This stark icy formation, believed to be the path of a deity in Shinto folklore, evokes both apprehension and reverence. Each winter, as the locals responded to its thunderous onset, they performed rituals celebrating the presence of this god, marking a sacred connection to their environment.However, in recent winters, the Miwatari has remained conspicuously absent, correlating with rising environmental worries. The lack of this seasonal hallmark has shifted sentiments in the community, which historically regarded its appearance as a sign of divine favor and natural harmony. Local priest Kiyoshi Miyasaka has led ceremonies on the frozen expanse of the lake, particularly in 2018 when the Miwatari last graced the waters, merging spirituality with a deep-seated respect for nature's rhythms.For generations, townspeople meticulously chronicled the Miwatari's occurrences, including the lake's condition and significant historical events, effectively creating an invaluable archive dating back to 1443. This documentation serves as a testament to their enduring relationship with the lake and underscores the current unease surrounding its fluctuations. As climate change reshapes weather patterns, the local populace finds themselves at a crossroads, questioning the balance of their natural world and the messages it conveys.

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