Transforming Wigs from Waste to Wealth: The Indian Hair Industry Revolution

Mon Oct 20 2025 15:44:34 GMT+0300 (Eastern European Summer Time)

As drag artists like Zeeshan Ali embrace wigs as a form of self-expression, the Indian hair industry faces a challenge to evolve, capitalizing on its extensive hair export market.

The Indian hair industry, the world’s largest supplier of human hair, is undergoing significant transformation. Once viewed as a niche, wigs are now gaining popularity among various demographics. Craftspeople like Kolachi Venkatesh help collect and process hair, typically sold for low prices, while companies like Diva Divine Hair seek to innovate and broaden accessibility. As demand for high-quality wigs surges, industry leaders call on the government to invest in hair processing technologies to elevate India’s position in the global market.

In an ever-evolving scene, Mumbai drag artist Zeeshan Ali, a veteran of 10 years, showcases around 45 distinctive wigs pivotal to his performances. “It’s an altar of identity, helping me transition from my everyday self into exaggerated, glamorous or whimsical characters,” he expresses, highlighting how each wig endows him with authenticity and stage presence.

However, the initial steps in Ali's journey were marred by difficulties in sourcing suitable wigs, predominantly available from abroad. “When I started, wigs were very hard to find in India,” he recalls. “Most were either imported or created from makeshift materials like wool or fabric.” Nowadays, wigs have evolved from being a drag-specific accessory to a popular style statement among all genders.

India, recognized as the world’s largest exporter of human hair, holds an impressive 85% of the global market share. Kolachi Venkatesh from Avadi, Chennai, embodies the grassroots of this industry, collecting hair for over 20 years. He started as a hair picker, a tradition passed down from his parents. “Hair is often thrown away but it's gold,” he asserts, appreciating the hidden value in what many deem waste.

Typically sold to traders for a pittance of between 10 cents and $1 per kilogram, the hair varies in quality, with longer strands bringing better prices. A diligent collector can amass 1–5 kilograms a day, yet the pay is often disappointingly low, falling beneath minimum wage standards, particularly in rural regions.

Venkatesh, who operates with a workforce of 50 pickers, describes the irony of their situation: “While our work contributes immensely to a billion-dollar global market, our earnings remain scant, often due to intermediaries dictating prices.”

In stark contrast, the hair collected in India often finds its way to China, a significant player in the wig-making industry valued in the billions. Benjamin Cherian from Plexconcil emphasizes that to reclaim a share of this lucrative market, India must enhance its value addition processes. “Research and training centres should be established to improve hair treatment and wig manufacturing,” he stresses.

Promisingly, organizations like Diva Divine Hair, launched in 2009 by Nidhi Tiwari, are innovating within the sector. Tiwari aims to produce high-quality wigs and extensions amid rising hair loss and thinning among women, a topic now more openly discussed. "We're looking to adopt advanced technologies like 3D printing for customization," she shares.

With regards to high-end products, Temple or Remy hair remains highly coveted. Sourced primarily from Hindu temples in southern India, such hair possesses unique qualities that make it superior. Raj Hair International, a leading trader in this area, emphasizes the need for technological advancements to optimize production efficiency.

“We’re witnessing a skyrocketing demand for Indian human hair due to its quality,” says George Cherion from Raj Hair. In this thriving landscape, advocates like Zeeshan Ali voice the need for affordable, high-quality wigs that spark a sense of wonder among users.