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Arepa Wars: The Culinary Clash Between Colombia and Venezuela

Both Colombia and Venezuela stake their claims on the delicious arepa, igniting a flavorful rivalry that goes beyond food.

By James WagnerSource: nytimes.com1 min read
Arepa Wars: The Culinary Clash Between Colombia and Venezuela
Image via nytimes.com

In brief

The arepa, a cherished cornbread staple of Colombian and Venezuelan cuisine, has become a symbol of national pride and culinary identity, fueling a heated debate over its origin and superiority.

A spirited culinary battle continues to unfold between Colombia and Venezuela, centered around the beloved arepa. This simple round cornbread, deeply embedded in the cultural fabric of both nations, is featured in various meals throughout the day, from breakfast to late-night snacks. Yet, asking either country about the true origins and mastery of the arepa may ignite a fierce debate reflective of regional pride.Gustavo Zapata, a seasoned chef at the popular Sancho Paisa restaurant in Medellín, Colombia, is well-acquainted with this rivalry. “Everyone defends their territory,” he explains, highlighting the protective nature inherent in national culinary identities. The confrontation surrounding the arepa bears resemblance to other global food rivalries, such as Peruvians and Ecuadorians over ceviche or Israelis and Lebanese regarding hummus. Underlying these culinary disputes are significant socio-political nuances. Venezuelan President Nicolás Maduro has leveraged the arepa as a means of nationalist sentiment, asserting claims of its exclusivity to Venezuela. Amidst a backdrop of economic and political strife, many Venezuelans have sought refuge elsewhere, carrying their cherished recipes with them and amplifying the ongoing debate. As the arepa continues to inspire passionate allegiance from both nations, its significance transcends mere sustenance. It stands as a testament to cultural pride, identity, and the shared histories of Colombia and Venezuela.

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