If you have ever taken old clothes to a recycling bank, be it in the UK or North America, there is a real chance that the garments ended up illegally dumped in a desert in northern Chile. The South American country is one of the world's biggest importers of used clothing, but items that fail to be resold have for years been simply discarded in big piles out in the barren, bone-dry countryside. In response to a law change, one Chilean company is now moving to tackle the problem.
Chile imports 123,000 tonnes of used clothes every year, according to government estimates. The big driver of this is the free-trade port of Iquique in the north of the country. Businesses in the city and surrounding towns can import, store and sell goods without having to pay customs duties or VAT. Known as Zofri, which stands for Zona Franca del Iquique (Iquique Free Trade Zone), it was created in 1975 to boost economic and social development in northern Chile.
Used clothes became one of the biggest imports. They continue to arrive from the US, Canada, Europe and Asia, baled up in shipping containers. The clothing is either sold locally or exported to other countries in Latin America. Felipe González, the general manager of Zofri, says the 50 or so clothing import firms help the local economy. It's a sector that gives the most work to local women in the region, he says. Around 10% work with textiles.
Although many have been able to establish livelihoods through this trade, the crux of the issue lies in the stock that doesn't sell. With no municipal landfill available for commercial imports, traders often opt for illegal dumping. This has resulted in a staggering estimate of 39,000 tonnes discarded into the Atacama Desert every year. The local authority struggles to monitor and prevent such activities, lacking the resources to police the vast terrain effectively.
Amidst this crisis, innovative solutions are emerging. The Centro Tecnológico de Economía Circular (CircularTec) is pioneering a project to promote the reuse of resources rather than having them end up as waste in the desert. A factory is being built to process textiles into useful items like insulation and felt.
Legislative changes are also in motion with the introduction of the Extended Producer Responsibility (Rep) Law. This mandates that businesses selling textiles must take responsibility for their lifecycle, pushing them towards sustainable practices and recycling initiatives. As Bekir Conkur, a local textile importer, notes, this is an opportunity for businesses to adapt and respond to the growing environmental concerns.
Chile imports 123,000 tonnes of used clothes every year, according to government estimates. The big driver of this is the free-trade port of Iquique in the north of the country. Businesses in the city and surrounding towns can import, store and sell goods without having to pay customs duties or VAT. Known as Zofri, which stands for Zona Franca del Iquique (Iquique Free Trade Zone), it was created in 1975 to boost economic and social development in northern Chile.
Used clothes became one of the biggest imports. They continue to arrive from the US, Canada, Europe and Asia, baled up in shipping containers. The clothing is either sold locally or exported to other countries in Latin America. Felipe González, the general manager of Zofri, says the 50 or so clothing import firms help the local economy. It's a sector that gives the most work to local women in the region, he says. Around 10% work with textiles.
Although many have been able to establish livelihoods through this trade, the crux of the issue lies in the stock that doesn't sell. With no municipal landfill available for commercial imports, traders often opt for illegal dumping. This has resulted in a staggering estimate of 39,000 tonnes discarded into the Atacama Desert every year. The local authority struggles to monitor and prevent such activities, lacking the resources to police the vast terrain effectively.
Amidst this crisis, innovative solutions are emerging. The Centro Tecnológico de Economía Circular (CircularTec) is pioneering a project to promote the reuse of resources rather than having them end up as waste in the desert. A factory is being built to process textiles into useful items like insulation and felt.
Legislative changes are also in motion with the introduction of the Extended Producer Responsibility (Rep) Law. This mandates that businesses selling textiles must take responsibility for their lifecycle, pushing them towards sustainable practices and recycling initiatives. As Bekir Conkur, a local textile importer, notes, this is an opportunity for businesses to adapt and respond to the growing environmental concerns.
