A Turkish attempt to force kebab shops in the EU to adhere to strict rules on how to make a doner kebab has been withdrawn.
If the bid for a Traditional Speciality Guaranteed label had succeeded, restrictions would have been imposed on the types of ingredients that could be used.
Germany's kebab industry would have been particularly skewered, as the quintessential high street doner has evolved over the decades to be rather different than the original from Turkey.
Turkish authorities argued the doner should be viewed as a national dish that spread to Europe through the migration of Turks. But German officials said its take on the kebab had become part of its own national cuisine.
The traditional way of cooking meat on a vertical rotisserie goes back to the 16th Century, and the name doner is related to that cooking technique. To reinforce its argument, Turkey's International Doner Federation (Udofed) had requested the EU implement uniform rules requiring that:
- The meat would come from a cow aged over 16 months, lamb aged at least six months, or chicken thighs and breasts.
- Veal and turkey meat would be banned.
- Meat would have to be sliced to a thickness of 3-5mm.
- The type of knife would be regulated, and marinades subject to rules too.
The German variant of a kebab often uses veal in a flatbread packed with vegetables including red cabbage, pickles, and red onions topped with sauces — thus could be viewed as a European take on the Turkish classic.
The Turkish federation failed to consult Germany's kebab industry, which hit back supported by the government in Berlin. The German food and agriculture ministry had taken note of the Turkish bid with some astonishment. Former German food and agriculture minister Cem Özdemir stated it was up to everyone to determine how a doner should be enjoyed in Germany, emphasizing that there was no need for Ankara's guidelines.
If Udofed had proceeded with its bid, the European industry dominated by the Turkish diaspora would have faced significant changes. In Germany alone, there are over 1.5 million Turkish citizens, and approximately 60,000 people are employed in the kebab industry, producing around 400 tonnes of kebab daily. Annual sales of kebabs generate roughly €3.5 billion across Europe, with €2.4 billion in Germany.
The Turkish federation notified the European Commission that it had retracted its proposal on September 23, as it had received numerous objections and an attempt to negotiate a compromise was unsuccessful.